Salmon Grilled in Cedar Sheets

Adapted from an article in the New York Times

Cedar paper is pliable enough to embrace a single-portion fillet of salmon, a hunk of fresh mozzarella or half a ripe summer peach. The papers, first soaked in water, cook directly on the grill (they char and scorch, so they can be used only once) and lend the contents a lacy, smoked perfume. The sheets can be rolled into tubes around shrimp, cinched with a strap of scallion green and grilled. They're best used with subtle foods, because the paper's sandalwood-like tones are no match for bold flavors like marinated skirt steak. Try fish, cheese, tofu or summer fruit.

Serves 4

Cedar-Grilled Salmon
1 bunch scallions, about 10 inches long
4 squares of cedar paper, 6 inches square
12 ounces skinned wild salmon, about 1 inch thick, sliced into four equal portions
2 teaspoons walnut or peanut oil
Sea salt or kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lemon, quartered and thinly sliced
2 stems of cilantro or chervil, for garnish

1. Peel six of the longest, broadest scallion leaves from their stalks, stripping the leaves as far down to the bulb as possible.

2. Split two of the leaves lengthwise and set aside; in lightly boiling water, blanch the other four scallion leaves for 15 seconds and transfer to an ice bath. Drain, gently squeeze out excess water and reserve. (Keep the remaining scallions for another use.)

3. Moisten the cedar paper by immersing the squares in cold water for 10 minutes. Remove the squares and place a piece of salmon in the center of each, parallel to the grain of the wood. Drizzle 1/2 teaspoon of walnut oil over each piece of salmon and season with a couple of pinches of salt and a grind of pepper. Lay a thin strip of raw scallion and then two slices of lemon lengthwise over each fillet.

4. Encase each fillet in a cedar-paper tube, overlapping the edges; wrap a scallion leaf around the center of each tube and tie it in a knot.

5. Immediately set the salmon tubes over a grill, about 2 or 3 inches above very hot coals, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, turning occasionally so the salmon cooks evenly but remains pink inside. The cedar paper will char and may smolder slightly, but it should not burn.

6. Remove the tubes from the grill with tongs and transfer to a serving platter. When cool enough to handle, slide the scallion band back to within an inch of one end. Gently pry open the opposite end of the cedar tube and trim the corners with kitchen scissors to reveal the salmon inside. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro or chervil and serve immediately.

Adapted from Edward Lee.

© 2005 The New York Times Company

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