Cookbook Review of 

"Good Food No Fuss"

by Anne Willan

Anne Willan’s upcoming visit to In Good Taste reminds me of last year’s class that she taught with a menu from her “Good Food No Fuss” cookbook. I reached for the cookbook to reacquaint myself with her depth of knowledge and wide variety of recipes. In using the recipes you never feel left alone. Ann is always teaching and giving you confidence to master new techniques with delicious results. The table of contents is divided into chapters such as “Thirty Minutes to the Table”, “No-cook Suppers and Salads”, and “Perfect for Parties”.

            Gougère is a dish based on the cream puff technique. Every year my family can’t wait for Nouveau Beaujolais Day in November and indulging in cheese laden gougère. Anne Willan’s version uses the dough as a flat pizza shape then topping it with goat cheese, garlic and herbs. I found her directions very clear, explaining each part of the cream puff technique and its results. Even at the end she tells the cook that the gougère will puff and deflate slightly as it cools. This is important to know if you have never made this lush appetizer.

            On page 115, there is a beautiful picture of “Moroccan Crown Roast of Turkey” with a crust of honey, spices, sesame seeds and almonds. It looked so inviting that even though my family has dwindled I had to make it using a single turkey breast instead of the crown roast. It is easy to assemble, first rubbing the turkey with the spices then baking and basting with a honey-chicken stock mixture. Toward the end of cooking, pan juices, toasted sesame seeds and almonds are added to the honey basting mixture. It is then reduced and spread over the turkey and baked until the crust becomes a rich nut brown. Again, Anne slips in a cooking technique, teaching us 3 ways to test for poultry doneness. “The roast is done if it feels very firm when you pinch the breast between finger and thumb. When you pierce the meat with a fork, the juice should run clear, not pink, and the meat thermometer stuck in the thickest part should register 175’F”. This dish is a great way to eat turkey beyond Thanksgiving!

            It was Sunday night and our new roommate became inspired to make a wine infused meal from the book. Shannon made Salmon in Red-wine Sauce, Red-wine Risotto, and a California Cornmeal Cake with Chardonnay served with Tropical Fruit Salad in Sweet Wine. Although the Salmon is a multiple pan dish there are parts that can be done ahead and reheated. The fish is poached in a wine / broth mixture and then the building of the sauce begins. In classic French technique there is much reducing and concentrating of flavors. The garnish of bacon, sliced mushrooms, and baby onions adds another layer of texture and sweet and salty elements. The final secret ingredient is a “hazelnut-sized piece of dark or unsweetened chocolate”. The chocolate re-introduces a bite from the wine that has been cooked out.  I was reminded of the many sauces I had made in various restaurants years ago and the satisfaction of building a perfect sauce. The Red-Wine Risotto was a straight forward risotto recipe. Anne took us under her wing and told us how she liked to finish the dish, giving us a verbal nudge toward perfect risotto. For those of us who skimp on butter additions, we were told that the last addition of butter at the end “marries all the flavors together”. The butter smoothes out the other ingredients and with a dusting of Parmesan it’s ready to eat. The California Cornmeal Cake was a snap to put together. All of the ingredients were combined in a food processor then baked for about an hour. I loved the crumb of the cake and crunch from the cornmeal. The Chardonnay could easily be substituted with apple juice. The Tropical Fruit Salad in Sweet Wine was a perfect suggested accompaniment. The cake easily absorbed the fruit juices. I could see using the cake instead of a shortcake recipe to go with strawberries and whipped cream!

            This is an international cookbook ranging from Bulgarian Lamb and Vegetable Stew, Portuguese Pork with Clams, to Mexican Stuffed Peppers with Cheese. I think a good cookbook should teach, inspire, and deliver good recipes that become one’s repertoire. “Good Food No Fuss” is one of those cookbooks.

Read! Cook! Enjoy!

Reviewed by: Judith Bishop

www.ingoodtastestore.com

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