Italian Slow and Savory

By Joyce Goldstein

Ms. Goldstein’s new cookbook is a captivating tour of her beloved Italy. From the warm pictures on its cover to her detailed introduction, which sets the tone and philosophy of the cookbook, Ms. Goldstein ushers us into the world of slow and savory cooking the Italian way.

I found the 12 page introduction to be a cornerstone of the recipes and a captivating gateway to the book. We watch how Italy shaped the young Goldstein and how it still holds sway over her cooking style. We are taught that slow and regional food has been the root and rhythm of Italian cooking for generations. She discusses quite passionately how food is changing in Italy and issues a call to arms to keep dishes alive in home kitchens. Although the book could be viewed as a coffee table cookbook, the introduction banishes that idea. There is no need for special equipment and - for those who own crock pots - Ms. Goldstein has suggestions on interpreting the recipes. As with any chef she has her opinions, preferring black pepper to white and salting as you create to help release the food’s flavors. Buy kosher or free range chickens and don’t be afraid of marbled meat! Slow cooking means the fat will help with the flavoring and is necessary moisture for tougher cuts. Ms. Goldstein has also included an invaluable detailed description of regions in Italy including the cities, cuisine, wine regions, red and white selections from the area and wineries. Her recipes also suggest an appropriate wine from the region of the dish.

When I delved further into the cookbook, my hands couldn’t help but caress the pages and my eyes were delighted with the format and gorgeous pictures by Paolo Nobile. Each recipe opens with Ms. Goldstein sharing with us something special about the recipe. It could be the region where a main ingredient is from, a technique that is essential to the dish, or the ease in preparation. Each dish introduction is an invitation to create the dish. She also gives variations, side notes and detailed discussions of important ingredients for the recipe.

So what dishes to explore? I skimmed the recipes thinking of my larder and most recent trip to the Farmer’s Market. Remembering the escarole, fresh pecorino, and some pre-portioned ground beef in the fridge, I found Zuppa alla sante. Ms. Goldstein wrote that the soup was nourishing, filling and somewhat extravagant. There also was the addition of eggs and cheese at the end as an enrichment. I found the layout of the book very easy to work from. In this case there were 2 sections easily defined with the directions walking you through the dish. I was true to the directions and made the meatballs first. It however would not have been my cooking logic. I liked the idea of cooking the meatballs in the soup and the egg cheese garnish swirled in at the end to give a hearty added dimension to the dish. This certainly wasn’t a hard nor a lengthy dish to prepare. To save time the broth could easily be made ahead and the meatballs could be prepared and even frozen until ready to use. The homey quality of the soup made me fantasize about the Italian mothers who prepared this dish for their families. I added cut up apples for dessert and was nourished and satisfied.

My next recipe was Pastuccia, a polenta dish with sausage, pancetta, and raisins. Cooking more for myself these days without my not so silent partner and college age daughter, I can now indulge myself in dishes that would cause others’ eyes to roll. I love the texture of polenta and the sweet raisins and salty pancetta and sausage called my name. Unlike most polenta dishes that you stir and cook on top of the stove, this recipe has you pouring boiling water into the polenta to make a thick batter, adding the other ingredients and then baking it until the top is golden and the sausage and pancetta were crispy. I loved the baked polenta texture contrasted by the crisp sausage and polenta. The soft sweet raisins added a third texture and flavor to the dish. Pastuccia, a simple salad, and a movie rounded out the meal. Next time I will definitely slip the dish onto my not so silent partner’s plate!

With a nod to my restaurant days in Boston, and making a similar dish, Veal Saltimbocca, I found Involtini di Vitello o Manzo con Carciofi. These are little braised veal rolls stuffed with artichokes. I found Ms. Goldstein’s preface fascinating as she described slight variations with some  colorful Italian descriptions such as “uccelletti scappati”, birds that got away, or “valigini”, little valises. Again, the Farmer’s Market came through, with beautiful baby artichokes to cook. With this dish I was not mentally transported to Italy, but to my memories of the bustle of restaurant work. I worked with precision, flattening the veal and mixing the minced garlic, chopped parsley and grated lemon in a small bowl. Ms. Goldstein suggests two different sauce variations to finish the dish. The southern interpretation uses chopped tomatoes whereas the north would finish the sauce with heavy cream or butter. For the home cook, this dish can be easily prepared ahead of time. The involtini can made earlier in the day leaving you time to get ready for your guests or a Friday night with your not so silent partner! My Involtini’s were made with the southern variation and accompanied by fresh asparagus and a small slice of my leftover Pastuccia.

For me, creating a meal is a continuous thread from conception to the finished product. Ms. Goldstein’s book, with so many satisfying and creative recipes, appeals to my sense of culinary rhythm in the kitchen. Slow and savory cooking brings us back in touch with the process of cooking and the toothsome reward!

Reviewed by: Judith Bishop

www.ingoodtastestore.com

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