Review of 'Antipasti'

503-248-2015

In Good Taste
located in the Pearl District, Portland, Oregon.
http://www.ingoodtastestore.com

Review of

Antipasti

Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates

by Joyce Goldstein, Wine Recommendations by Jeffrey Meisel, Photographs by Paolo Nobile

In Good Taste Cooking School: Cookbook review of 'Antipasti' by Joyce Goldstein

Joyce Goldstein’s new book; Antipasti- Fabulous Appetizers and Small Plates begins with a story set in 1987 when a group of American chefs were enlisted to prepare an antipasto luncheon for the first Mediterranean Food Conference. Outraged Italians walked out because the Americans had taken creative liberties with their hallowed antipasti. Flash forward and Goldstein finds that the traditional antipasti hasn’t gone away but has been expanded to include dishes that previously were considered part of the opening course.

While the contemporary antipasto presentation has become more elegant with a wider variety of ingredients used, the small plate meal has let dining become more casual and entertaining easier. Shop-and-Serve Antipasti is a unique chapter for a cookbook. Goldstein confides that even she can be short of cooking time and a trip to the supermarket can bail her out without disappointing her guests. A pantry stocked with canned beans, olive oil-packed tuna, sun-dried tomatoes and marinated vegetables as well as fresh vegetables can quickly be assembled into an appealing antipasto platter.

Cruising the aisles of the grocery store will yield hard cheeses to be drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar or truffle oil. Pieces of smoked salmon can be rolled around a mascarpone, horseradish and black pepper filling. Served as-is or on top of toasted bread, these morsels are delicious! Store bought, rotisserie-cooked chicken, can be turned into a salad of raisins, chopped candied citron and balsamic vinaigrette. This dish is from Ristorante IL Sole di Maleo outside of Milan. Don’t forget the cured meats! Prosciutto can be wrapped around the usual melon or any seasonal fruit, cheese, or breadstick. There are numerous quick toppings for crostini (small slices of toasted bread), or their thicker cousin bruschette. So go to your favorite grocery store with a new view and gather some pre-made dishes to ease your entertaining preparations!

The strength of any Goldstein book is her depth of recipes and unwavering voice. The history and geographic area of origin is mentioned about most recipes. Goldstein begins her recipe chapters with Eggs and Cheese. I think today’s home cook has gotten away from serving egg dishes when entertaining and should serve them more often. Stuffed Eggs “…are so simple to make they could almost be in Shop-and-Serve Antipasti, except that you have to cook the eggs…perfectly.” Goldstein walks us through her flawless technique for a perfect hard-boiled egg, then onto two filling suggestions. The wine? Prosecco or any other sparkling white. There is an intriguing recipe for a Meat-Filled Omelet Roll, a selection of petite custards, and one of my favorite seasonal delicacies, Fried Zucchini Blossoms stuffed with fresh mozzarella, ricotta, pecorino, and chopped fresh herbs.

Savory Pastries has a wonderful selection of do-ahead items that can either be made in individual portions or served in slices from a larger pie. Butternut Squash Pie, Sweet Red Pepper Tart with Anchovy Cream, and Panzerotti-an Italian style empanada- are too delicious to pass up.

Years ago, I was introduced to Crocchetti di Riso- Italian rice croquettes. These bite-sized morsels do need last minute cooking but I’m sure your guests will be in the kitchen waiting for these croquettes to come out of the pan. Goldstein gives many suggestions for the filling. They can be stuffed with a ground meat and onion mixture, the rice can be laced with saffron and stuffed with a cube of mozzarella, or as in Sicily; stuffed with peas and chopped meat. Whatever filling you decide upon, make sure you’ve made enough Crocchetti di Riso for your hungry and appreciative audience.

Goldstein notes that the traditional vegetable antipasti consisted mainly of marinated, preserved, or cooked vegetables dressed with vinaigrette. Vegetables were also stuffed with various fillings and served at room temperature. Contemporary chefs have added warm vegetable salads, composed salads, and steamed vegetable puddings to expand the repertoire. Involtini di Melanzane (Stuffed Eggplant Rolls) is a wonderful traditional recipe that can double as a light dinner entrée in the summer. Sformato di Cavolfiore (Cauliflower Pudding) is a good base recipe. Included in this recipe is a section with many variations to make with this pudding. Goldstein also gives us a recipe for an optional seafood sauce to accompany the custard.

Seafood is prominent on any Italian antipasto table and Goldstein’s recipes range from the traditional Calamari Ripieni (Stuffed Squid) to Scampi al Polpelmo, (Shrimp with Grapefruit). This chapter has many unique dishes from all over Italy.

The last chapter, Meat and Poultry reminds us that; ”Antipasto is the tempting start to a meal, an appetite rouser, therefore substantial dishes based on meat and poultry are not in abundance, as they are too filling.” However, Goldstein tempts us with Olive alla Marchigiana, (Meat-Stuffed Fried Olives) which use large green olives that are stuffed with a ground beef, pork, and chicken mixture combined with Parmesan cheese, nutmeg and a pinch of ground cinnamon. Rolled in bread crumbs and fried they would add an authentic twist to your table. As I begin to close the book I notice another special summertime recipe, Vitello Tonnato, (Veal with Tuna Sauce). After browning a boneless leg of veal, the meat is slowly poached until done. Plan to cook this ahead because it should be well chilled to serve. Thinly slice and nap with the tuna caper sauce, it is a small plate that will impress and one of my favorite Italian dishes.

All of the recipes have regional wine recommendations. Some include recipe variations giving the reader even more recipes to try. Goldstein has written a very approachable cookbook that speaks to today’s entertaining style. Antipasto is demystified making it a fun way to serve and enjoy friends all year round.

Read! Eat! Enjoy!

Judith Bishop