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Review of 

Cucina Del Sole

By Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Published by William Morrow, 454 pages,$29.95

I have a secret to tell. My German grandmother would be quite upset to find out that every summer I turn Italian. My Italian transformation starts with fresh spring peas and a hankering to make a “family favorite” risi bisi (fresh peas and rice). Then, with each new addition of fresh produce at the farmer’s market waiting to be plucked, simmered, and grilled my mousy brown hair turns black, my eyes exotic and I become Sophia Loren. My transformation became complete this year when I found Cucina Del Sole by Nancy Harmon Jenkins to add to my Mediterranean cookbook section. Jenkins, a passionate author has been exploring and writing about Italy for more than thirty years. Armchair traveling couldn’t get any better than with Jenkins as your guide. This book delves into the region Mezzogiorno which includes Calabria, Basilicata, Puglia, Campania and Sicily. For the visually inclined this is the shoe, heel, and island of Italy.

Cucina Del Sole is more than just another Italian cookbook. Jenkins takes you on a first person historical and cultural tour of the area and her passion is infectious. “The reason behind all this hortophilia is simple and incontrovertible. Vegetables are better in southern Italy than almost anywhere else in the world.” Jenkins captures the romance of the food but is always aware that she is writing for an American audience. If she makes changes in a recipe it is noted as well as ingredients that we cook with which would make good substitutes.

Jenkins’ introduction is a colorful history lesson of the area, educating us about the myriad cultural layers that influenced Mezzogiorno. Greeks, Arabs, Normans, Albanian Christians. Arabs, Spanish, and even Americans with the 1492 return of Columbus and the tomato, cut a culinary swath through this region. Farming and cooking techniques merged together.  Each of these areas has a unique style. Jenkins finds Sicily’s food very complex, Puglia’s is simple, straightforward, and cooks there are divided on their use of garlic. Calabrese and Lucanian cooks use chilies to brighten their dishes. There is a common thread to the region’s cuisine and that is the use of bread and pasta made from hard durum wheat, olive oil, pork fat and wine. Meat is for feast days and as a seasoning. Seafood is abundant and tomatoes, eggplant, and wild or cultivated greens are ubiquitous.

The contents of the book are organized the way one would eat a meal in Italy beginning with a chapter on breads; antipasti; primi or first courses that include soups, pasta, and grains; secondi or main courses including seafood, meat, and poultry; verdure e insalate, vegetables and salads; and the last recipes of course are dolci, sweets. There are also sections on where to find ingredients and advice on traveling in the region. After reading this book I was ready to grab my passport and go!

One of the first recipes that caught my eye was Arancini di Riso- Crispy Fried Rice Balls with Ragù. I’ve made the delicious morsels before but have only stuffed them with mozzarella.  In this recipe the leftover saffron risotto encapsulates a meat ragù before it is deep fried. The key to the recipe is to have both the rice and ragù pre-made and ready to go. Even after assembling the arancini they can be covered and stored in the fridge overnight. Jenkins does point out that store bought tomato sauce is acceptable to mix with the meat and vegetable mixture. Besides using ground meat (beef, veal, pork or a combination), chicken livers, mirepoix (celery, onions, and carrots), garlic, peas and dried red chili are mixed in with a scant amount of tomato sauce. I was too lazy to make the small bite-size balls and opted for the large size for dinner.  I loved the layers of color when I broke an arancini open. First there was the crispy brown coating. Next a golden saffron rice ring and finally green peas peeking out of a red meat sauce. I paired them with Jenkins’ recipe for Spinaci Saltati- sautéed spinach as a color and texture contrast. Sophia was happy. 

I don’t think there are ever enough pasta recipes in the world. My husband constantly reminds me that he could eat pasta every night (perhaps he is Italian also?) I am not quite that passionate but it is a “food group” that we eat at least twice a week. Pasta del Principe- Spaghetti with Green Herbs and Crumbled Tuna falls into the quick and easy category. A “pesto” is made with mint, parsley, garlic and anchovies. Bread crumbs are toasted and once the pasta is cooked it is all combined and garnished with lemon zest and toasted almonds. When cooking fish I like to use anchovies as a salt component. If you don’t like to have leftover anchovies sitting around there is anchovy paste sold in tubes that works just as well. The mint and lemon zest made this a perfect non-tomato pasta dish.

To read and cook from this book is to embrace a Mediterranean rhythm of life. The ingredients are simple and it can’t be stressed enough that they should be as fresh as possible. The recipes are straightforward and satisfying. These aren’t necessarily under 30 minute meals but a quick read will tell you how long they will take. There are marvelous recipes to earmark for the winter. Almond Stuffed Leg of Lamb with Chickpea Puree will be served for next year’s Easter dinner. Vitello con Salsa di Acciughe Pot Roast of Veal with an Anchovy-Caper sauce sound delicious for a cold rainy October night.

Sweets are kept to a minimum and Jenkins mentions that in the Mezzogiorno, sweets are eaten late afternoon with strong sweet coffee or glasses of sweet wines and ratafias. Arance al Marsala Sliced Oranges with Sugar and Marsala lead her selections. Sliced oranges are sprinkled with sugar and a splash of dry Marsala. These are three simple components in perfect unison. Torta Ricca di Ricotta Rich Ricotta Tart has the colorful addition of candied citron, golden raisins and toasted almonds to add texture to this deliciously dense dessert reminiscent of cannoli filling. When reading and cooking from the book I found I wasn’t looking for dessert. A bowl of fresh strawberries or peaches was enough to satisfy that craving.

Let your inner Sophia Loren out and meet me at the market with your Cucina Del Sole to enjoy our summer’s bounty at its best the Mezzogiorno way!

Read! Eat! Enjoy!

Ciao

Judith Bishop   

www.ingoodtastestore.com

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