Review of 'From Earth to Table' by John Ash

Email us!

231 NW 11th Ave

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 248-2015
Fax: 503-248-2034

In Good Taste
located in the Pearl District, Portland, Oregon.
http://www.ingoodtastestore.com

Home

Review of

'From Earth to Table'

by John Ash

With all of this talk about organic, sustainable, and ethical eating these days, it’s nice to find a book that addresses these issues. From the Earth to the Table by John Ash and Sid Goldstein slips into this category. Revised, expanded, and reissued by Chronicle Press, this 1996 IACP award winner features Ash’s recipes of wine country cuisine that are as timely and fresh as they were eleven years ago.

Ash opened his restaurant, John Ash & Co. in Santa Rosa, CA, in 1980 and showcased food and wine from that area. Using fresh seasonal ingredients Ash’s food personifies the best of California wine country cuisine. In reading and cooking from this book I was struck by how we have created an American Cuisine with fresh seasonal combinations.

Ash is a passionate spokesman for ethical food. “I strongly believe that the preservation of the planet is directly tied to the food supply.” Ash reminds us to be aware of not only ethical agriculture but the ramifications of commercial animal husbandry. These are gentle reminders to think about what one is eating and to “vote with your fork” for seasonal and responsibly raised foods. We are very lucky to live in the Pacific Northwest with excellent ingredients at our knife tips and stores that label their products with origin of source information.

“Eating with the seasons helps ground us and reminds us of our connections to the earth.” As summer approaches, the oncoming mouth watering deluge of fresh produce can’t help but entice even the most the reluctant cook to try new recipes. From the Earth to the Table combines the best of the season with delicious results. Starting off with thirty-five salads I was immediately lured into making “Asparagus Salad with Pickled Ginger Vinaigrette”. Grilled asparagus are brushed with an Asian inspired dressing that uses pickled ginger, rice wine vinegar, and toasted sesame oil. Served with Ash’s “Japanese-style Grilled Salmon with Soba Noodle Salad”, this meal was easy to make with the grill guy doing double duty grilling the asparagus and salmon.

I tucked my new cookbook under my arm and went off to the Saturday Portland Farmer’s Market to forage for dinner. SuDan Lamb is the booth to visit for delicious lamb products. The recipe I had in mind was “Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms and Figs”. I did make some slight changes to the recipe- how could I use cremini mushrooms when morels were lurking? And pine nuts? After a seasonal hiatus the walnut lady was back with her fresh nuts and I stocked up in case there might be another shortage.

First a stuffing is made with ground lamb, pine nuts (walnuts), carrots, celery, mushrooms, garlic, scallions, dried figs, bulgur wheat, the herbs mint, thyme, rosemary, and grated lemon zest. Ash reminds us to cook a bit of the stuffing before tasting to adjust seasonings. Next stuff, skewer, and tie the lamb. A blast of 500°F heat for ten minutes quickly sears the outside and is followed by about thirty minutes at 375°F. The de-glazing sauce vegetables are added to the pan at this time to roast until the meat has reached 125°F and is removed to a foil tented platter. When I initially read the sauce recipe my reaction was to grab some butter to emulsify but Ash has made that bit of thickening unnecessary with 2 cups of mirepoix (celery, onions, and carrots), 3 cups stock and 1 cup red wine. He boils it together for only eight minutes and finishes the sauce with chopped parsley. It is an elegant au jus that moistens the stuffed lamb without overpowering. Ash gives wine suggestions for each recipe and this one was for a cabernet or merlot because they often have flavor profiles that include descriptions of mint and fig flavors. It was divine.

I’m always looking for fun appetizers to serve at a moments notice and with the al fresco season (eating outdoors) ramping up, this year is no exception. Ash has a recipe for “Tomato and Cheese Fondue” that lightens my ubiquitous old standby and introduces fondue to a new generation. A quick sauté of shallots and garlic are added to canned crushed tomatoes along with orange zest and chopped fresh basil. Instead of the usual fondue pot (although there is no reason not to dust off that wedding present relic), Ash suggests using an attractive oven-proof baking dish. The tomato mixture is combined with any good melting cheese and heated until the cheese has melted. I used half fresh mozzarella and Gruyére (for its nuttiness). I wish I had made a double batch because this was inhaled in no time. Don’t forget to serve lots of crusty bread! I’ll definitely use this recipe for the 4^th of July with Ash’s “Lobster and Grilled Portobello Mushroom Salad”. I can’t wait!

“Grilled Ahi Tuna with Japanese Noodles, Ginger-Soy Sauce, and Wasabi Mousse”, is a dish variation that can be easily found in many Portland restaurants. If you follow Ash’s recipe you can add your home to the Portland dining scene. Tuna steaks are lightly coated with olive oil, salt, and pepper and grilled. A ginger soy sauce is cooked, cooled and half of it tossed with Japanese noodles (soba or somen noodles are suggested) and sliced scallions. Once the tuna is cooked to rare (I sliced it into ½ inch pieces) it is placed on the noodles and drizzled with the remaining ginger-soy sauce. Topped with a dollop of Wasabi Mousse (wasabi powder, whipped cream and lemon juice) and Chive Mixture (chives, lemon zest, fresh mint and serrano chile) this dish is worthy of your good china and candlelight. But if you have neither, paper plates on the back deck work just as well. Each bite has a counterpoint of flavors from the semi-sweet ginger-soy sauce to the creamy hot wasabi mousse and kick of the chive garnish. This time I served it with sliced mangoes and strawberries but next time I have dog eared Ash’s “Mango Crème Brûlée” to try.

Although the cookbook isn’t divided by season, it is very easy to pick recipes that coincide with the market’s abundance. If you are the kind of cook who wants to add new flavor combinations to your repertoire Ash is the chef to follow. For the seasoned cook you will appreciate the way Ash has lightened up dishes and put new twists on standbys. Some of the recipes have several steps, but don’t let that stop you from creating a winner. The recipes flow logically and use ingredients that are easy to find in our area.

Tuck this cookbook under your arm this summer and get cooking!

Read! Eat! Enjoy!

Judith Bishop

Home